Many people see photos of this magical place with gorgeous blue waterfalls, tucked away in a remote village, and immediately add it to their bucket list. I remember when I first saw the video that went viral on Facebook and immediately started doing research. What I had read was quite discouraging. Visiting this hidden oasis required a permit which you had to call for hours on end in order to get through. It seemed very difficult. I decided that this trip would have to wait. Fast forward to late 2017 and I decided this was something I wanted to cross off of my bucket list in 2018. So I looked into it again and read that there was a website created to book your reservations! This was great news. So I continued my research and started planning the details of the trip.
On February 1st, 2018, at 10 AM EST (8 AM AZ time), I was on my computer, ready to hit the refresh button on the
Havasupai Reservations website. This is the day that reservations become available each year. You are still able to call the tourist office but I have heard it can be really difficult to get through. Reservation lines are open from 9 AM - 3 PM M-F. With that being said, I have heard success stories about both methods. I would recommend booking on the website and if you need to make any changes, you could try calling. Just don't give up! I was having issues with the website loading as there were so many people trying to score a reservation. The dates I wanted were already gone. I was hoping for late May/early June because it would be warm but not peak summer temperatures and before monsoon season. I finally had 4 consecutive days in March after trying to select several other dates. I hit the process button and a few minutes later, it took me to another page that showed my Reservation Confirmation code! I also received an email that read, "Save/print this Reservation Confirmation and bring it with your photo ID to check in at the tourist office in the village of Supai on the way to the campground. Before you leave the trailhead parking area, note the license plate number of your vehicle to provide at check in." I couldn't believe I actually got it after 35 minutes of trying! After several attempts, we were officially going for 4 days and 3 nights. This is the maximum length that you can choose but they do allow you to book two consecutive reservations for a longer trip. I am not sure if anyone would be able score two reservations back to back seeing how difficult it was just to make one. They give you a space to add an additional name to the reservation. At least one of these people have to be there to check in. You cannot transfer the reservation. It was $201.66 per person, $403.33 total for 4 days/3 nights all fees included (2 Days /1 Night: $140.56 per person, 3 Days/2 Nights: $171.12 per person). The website stated, "Weekend nights (Friday, Saturday, Sunday), Holiday weekday nights (February 19, May 28, July 4, September 3, October 8), and Spring Break weekday nights (March 5-8 and 19-22) are an additional $18.34 per night", however even though 3 of our nights fell within those dates, we were not charged these extra fees. You can make each reservation for up to 20 people but you must pay in full at the time the reservation is made and are non-refundable. You will only need your information for the reservation. Tribal discounts are processed upon check-in with a valid reservation and identification.
Since the trip was coming up in a little over a month (Tuesday, March 6th - Friday, March 9th), I had to get to work and start planning out the details. Luckily, I already had most of necessary gear from previous backpacking trips. For a guide on what to pack, click
here for my backpack essentials list. I started by booking flights. The closest airport is McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas, NV. I found a good deal through Frontier for March 3rd - 10th. This allowed enough time to have a few days in Vegas before Havasupai and one day after to recover. Next, I booked a rental car through Avis at the airport's car rental center. They have shuttles to take you from the airport to the center to pick up your car. I then booked a hotel room for two nights in Vegas and one night at the Hualapai Lodge in Peach Springs, the closest town to the trailhead. From the McCarran International Airport to Hualapai lodge, it is about 2 hours and 45 minutes. From the Lodge to the Hualapai Hilltop (Havasupai trailhead), it is about one and a half hours.
Hualapai Lodge - 900 Route 66, Peach Springs, AZ 86434, (928) 769-2230. Peach Springs is the last town with any facilities so make sure you fill up your gas tank. Another option is the
Grand Canyon Caverns Inn in Peach Springs. We chose the Hualapai Lodge because they had better rates. Although it is in close vicinity to the train tracks and there are trains coming through frequently, the noises did not bother me. I am an extremely light sleeper so I was nervous about our stay here but I would definitely choose to stay here again. The king size bed was comfortable and the lodge was very clean. We ate at the restaurant the night before our hike. I recommend the roast beef on fry bread, it is homemade! There is a gas station across the street which is where we purchased gallon jugs to fill our hydration bags. There is also a pool and spa but it was not yet open for the season when we were there.
You will know you've arrived when you start seeing cars parked alongside of the road. At the end of it, you will find the parking lot, restrooms, Porto potties, and just beyond those is the trailhead. It is an 8 mile hike to the Tourist Office. If you plan on going in the warmer months of summer, I recommend starting the hike early. Also take at least a 2L hydration bag. I bought gallon jugs from the gas station in Hualapai to fill mine. I also kept bottled water in the trunk for the last day after hiking back to the car. There is no water source along the trail but there is a spring in the campground where you can refill before deciding on a campsite.
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The sign letting you know "you're almost there"! |
We started our decent around 8:30 AM and arrived to the tourist office around 12 PM. The trail is easy to follow and it was downhill for most parts and flat for others. It would be good to take Band-Aids for blisters, a knee brace, and trekking poles for support. We did not take any of those items but plan to if we go again. Keep in mind the tourist office hours which depend on the time of year you are visiting. May - October: 6 AM - 6 PM & November - April: 9 AM - 3 PM. You will want to plan your hike accordingly to make sure the office will be open so you can check in. We went into the office where Leah was working. She checked us in with my ID and printed reservation confirmation, had us sign the waiver, gave us a map, our wristbands, and a tag for our tent. She asked for our car info, I forgot the rental's license plate number but she said make, model, and color would suffice. They sell post cards for $1 and patches for $10 here in the office. I recommend buying the post cards because their post office is the only one in the US served by a mule train and they apply a unique mule stamp! Don't forget you will need to buy a stamp there or take your own. The post office hours are Mon. - Fri. 8 AM - 11 AM, 1:30 PM - 4:30 PM. Right next to the post office is a little store with snacks and other items. They accept credit cards here but had a $10 minimum. Across from the store there is a restaurant which also accepts credit cards with no minimum. It is a little pricey considering all items must be flown in. We indulged in a hot ham and cheese which came with a bag of chips for $6 and it was so worth it! We also got breakfast bagels on our last day. This will allow you to pack less food so that way your backpack is a little lighter!
From the village, you will continue past the restaurant and go two more miles. You will pass Little Navajo Falls and Fifty Foot Falls along the way. Next you will come to Havasu Falls. I will never forget the first time I saw it. It is so breathtaking. Once you go down the hill past Havasu, you will see the Fry Bread Hut on your right! Fry Bread is a delicious treat but this stand only accepts cash. Prices vary from $5 for plain Fry Bread that you can top with peanut butter and jelly, Nutella, honey, or whatever condiments they have sitting out. $8 for a chili cheese dog on Fry Bread which is what we got, delicious, and $12 for an Indian Taco. They also sell beverages here. Once you pass the hut, you will see the ranger station on your left which is where you can find buckets to keep your food safe from the squirrels. Keep in mind that we were told that campers usually don't take them back to the station so you can find buckets at various campsites.
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Ranger Station |
On the right, just past the ranger station, are the composting bathrooms. Just a tip I learned from experience, they don't smell too horrible early on in the day, but the later it is, the worse the smell. If you would rather pop a squat, make sure to follow the leave no trace guidelines. No one wants to see toilet paper in this place of beauty. There was a lot of trash as well so if you plan to pack things down, pack it out! I like to make the area cleaner than I found it and pick up trash along the hike. I believe in Karma and respecting the people of Supai's land. 😊 You will then arrive at the campground and the natural water spring will be on the left. By this time, we were ready to find our "home sweet camp". There are a ton of spots but we chose one to the right, across the first sketchy footbridge.
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One of many bridges to cross the river |
There are about 6 sites on this side of the creek in the front area. If you keep going straight, you will find many more with great views of the creek as well. Although our spot did not have a picnic table, most do. We did have two trees that were perfect for hanging the hammock.
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Our Campsite |
The first night we just set up our tent, made food using our Jet Boil, and relaxed. It got really cold at night (I believe it was just below freezing), so if you plan on going in the colder months, take hand warmers/foot warmers and fill a Nalgene bottle with hot water to keep in your sleeping bag for extra warmth. You will also want to make sure you have a properly rated sleeping bag. Check out my
backpack list for more details on what I use to stay warm. In the morning, we made breakfast and instant coffee. Then we changed our clothes and lathered on sunscreen. We packed our day bag with a hydration bag, our water shoes, and tuna for lunch. We decided to hike to Mooney Falls (1 mile past campground) and Beaver Falls (3 miles past Mooney).
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The decent down to Mooney |
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Mooney Falls! |
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Great Spot to have lunch. |
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The rope swing at Mooney! |
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The slippery ladders you have to climb at Mooney.
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On your way to Beaver Falls, look for the palm tree. Almost there! |
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Beaver Falls |
We got a later start than what we wanted so that didn't give us enough time to hike past Beaver to the confluence. The confluence is the place where Havasu Creek meets the Colorado River. If we are lucky enough to make this trip again in the future, we will plan to hike to the confluence. Since you pass Mooney and Beaver along the way, we will do them all in one day which means you will want to get up really early. I've seen photos of the confluence and believe it will be worth the hike! We ended up taking the helicopter out on our last day since my boyfriend's knee had been bothering him. It was $80 per person plus a $10 fee to use a credit card. They start making a list at 10 am but you may want to get there earlier because the line starts forming early. The locals have the right of way on the helicopter and rightly so. The helicopter only runs on Thursday, Friday, and Sunday. I have heard that it is busier on Thursdays because it is pay day for the locals. My boyfriend had never been on a helicopter so we decided it was worth the money. We waited several hours before our names were called but we enjoyed hanging out in the village. We made friends with the dogs and chatted with the other visitors in line.
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The Supai Village, school on the right and post office ahead |
My boyfriends name was called first and since they load it based on weight, I was on the next flight. They had us leave our backpacks on the landing pad. My pack came 3 flights after me. Josh's didn't come for an hour and a half later. That was a little frustrating but we were waiting with another person that said he had been waiting for three hours on his. We also saw two people that got to keep their packs with them. So after all was said and done, we could have hiked out in about the same time as it took us to get back to our car after the helicopter experience. It was worth it to not be exhausted and sore though! You can actually fly into the village as well so it can be accessible for anyone but remember that you still have to hike from the village into the campground and then to all the falls. You can also have your packs brought in and out by mules or the helicopter. The mules could carry four bags so it was $140 each way I believe. The helicopter only charged $20 per bag each way. These are other options to make the hike a little easier on you.
We had a great time on this trip and I hope you get to check it out also. My pictures do not do this place any justice!
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